Learn More. Sep 17, at PM 1. OK, anyone have any ideas on how to stop the leaf springs from squeaking? They used to only do it when the chassis was under torsional load i. Now they squeak almost constantly and it's starting to annoy me. Is there a permanent solution?
Sep 17, at PM 2. Have you sprayed lithium grease, like you would for a garage door, between the springs? Sep 17, at PM 3. Sep 17, at PM 4. It should. It is thicker and better for the noise than WD is. I have used it on other squeaks before, and it works pretty damn good. Sep 17, at PM 5. Do you think that you got any sand in your leaf springs I sure hope that you haven't been mudding. My old truck and my brothers Titan would squeak really bad when we went mudding.
Sep 17, at PM 6. Maybe the noises are related and perhaps your dealer would be willing to try this out for you??? Condition Some customers may comment on a rear leaf spring slap or clunk noise. This noise is most apparent when the vehicle is operated over irregular road surfaces.
Verify that the rear leaf spring inserts 1 are present on the leading and trailing ends of the overload spring second stage leaf. The insert may have broken apart from wear and fallen out. If the inserts are not present, install new ones. Important: On some models, the vehicle may have to be raised to allow the springs to separate enough so the insert can be installed. They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle.
Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition.Your car squeaks.
It's gotten to the point where the neighbors know you're on the way home from half a block away because of all the "chirps" and "eeps" coming from your suspension. It's embarrassing, man. It's also potentially expensive if you have to replace all those worn parts.
Squeaky Leaf Springs
So why do these components begin to squeak? Suspension and steering joints wear out--and ultimately fail--when unlubricated metal-to-metal contact erodes bushings and bearing surfaces, much like grit sandpaper on a wooden table.
So let's nip this degradation in the bud. You're lucky. Chassis lubrication isn't expensive. You can buy a grease gun, some chassis grease and a couple of aerosol cans of lubricant for less than the price of one worn-out tie rod end. So there's no excuse. Your vehicle doesn't need to sound like an angry gerbil on a treadmill. Most cars and light trucks today are manufactured with sealed "lubed for life" ball joints, tie rod ends and even U-joints.
It's a self-fulfilling prophecy--when the factory-fill grease dries out, the joint wears out. Some vehicles still come with suspension and driveline parts that have proper grease fittings, allowing you to use a simple hand-pumped grease gun to inject precious lubrication at regular intervals.
Virtually all aftermarket parts, even the direct replacements for the sealed factory units, have grease fittings to allow for lubrication. Only the grease fitting. In fact, you could even drill and tap a hole into a sealed part and add a grease fitting yourself, which is something I usually do on my own cars.
Why do car manufacturers leave off this inexpensive fitting? They count every cent that goes into a new vehicle. And a few cents saved onvehicles is eventually real money. More important, lubed-for-life parts allow automakers to tout their vehicles as requiring less scheduled maintenance.
That has become more important in these days of five- or year warranties--even if the truth of the matter is that the unlubricateable parts will require eventual replacement, at your expense. The first thing you need to do before lubricating your chassis is to get some space underneath the vehicle so that you can work safely.
My pickup has enough clearance that I can simply crawl underneath it, grease gun in hand, and get the job done. My Porsche needs to be on ramps or safety stands. Either way, make sure the parking brake is on and you place blocks behind the wheels.
Toss something thicker than your head, a block of wood or even a spare tire, under there too for insurance.
Now that you're underneath the car, the procedure is simple--open up the dust boot on the fitting and clean off any grime with a rag so you don't force dirt inside. Pop the grease gun onto the fitting and pump the trigger until the rubber boot bleeds fresh grease around the edges.Chevrolet Silverado owners have reported 6 problems related to suspension noise under the suspension category.
The most recently reported issues are listed below. Also please check out the statistics and reliability analysis of Chevrolet Silverado based on all problems reported for the Silverado My truck barely has 17k miles and I noticed everytime I hit a bump I sounds like my suspension is all fucked up both front and back I honestly can't believe that they can sound like if they were k worned out shocks.
See all problems of the Chevrolet Silverado Brought the vehicle to the dealer at miles koons Chevrolet, tysons corner, va and under warranty they re-torqued the front frame cross member and lower control arms.
I actually could not believe that Chevrolet and the dealer stated that was the problem. In all my years repairing cars, I have never heard of a "frame cross member" requiring re-torqueing especially on a new vehicle. If it was loose along with the lower control arms, that would indicate a serious problem.OME leaf spring noise 2
Problem was not resolved. Again, I have never heard of a rubber bushing requiring lubrication. Immediately after taking the truck from the dealer, I took pictures of the sway bar bushings sowing all the lubricant oozing out. I have addressed this issue with gm and they have been non-responsive. My concern is with all the vibrations that these trucks have reported, the life cycle of the front sway bar bushings will be reduced and could have a serious detrimental affect during a crash as the vehicle gets older.
I was told there is no gm service bulletin on the issue. The dealer just wants the problem to go away and not see the truck again.
Gm needs to address this issue properly from a technical point of view from their engineers. Takata recall. While backing out of my driveway I heard a loud clunking sound coming from the under carriage of my truck.
It stopped for a second and then did it again the clunking sound got progressively louder. I noticed the sound at low speeds, high speeds, going over minor bumps and big bumps in the road. I got back in the vehicle and drove off and the sounds again started. I have infant twins that I was driving in my vehicle at this time and I became very concerned for their safety and mine.
I took the vehicle to the dealership since it is brand new and at the time only had k miles on it. They said "its a known problem in Chevrolet trucks" the paperwork they gave me after the "repair" stated" lubricate rear leaf springs and re-torque bolts" this indicates I had loose suspension components.
The problem occurred again and I again took the truck to the dealership. They again stated the same repair and refused to provide any other remedy and also refused to replace the leaf springs. The same problem happened again. Again I took the truck to the dealership and again they refused to provide any other form of service to remedy the problem. My truck has less than 8k miles on it and it has been in the shop on 4 separate instances for the same suspension problem.
The clunking and loose suspension noises have returned and I will be taking the truck in for the 5th time. This is unsafe, and my wife refuses to drive in my truck nor allow me to drive our children in our truck because shes concerned for their safety!.
Suspension makes noises when turning or going over bump. The truck shakes at speeds of from 35 mph, then it stops and when driving on the highway at speeds between 60 and 70 on the thruway it shakes again. The vibration is transferred through the gas pedel and into the seats and console. Also when brakeing it shakes. Its been in for service several times for this since I bought it. Also the voltage meter drops and I lose dash board lights.
This happens while the vehicle was in motion on both city and highway driving.Ideally, vehicle would only make two kinds of noise: the "vroom" of a revving engine, and maybe a pleasantly deep burble at idle. Beyond that, every single noise a vehicle makes is either an annoyance or a sign that something has gone wrong. Suspension squeaks are tremendously common on older vehicles for the same reason that door and floor squeaks are common on older houses.
Most aren't signs of terminal failure, but all make your prize ride sound like an ailing bucket on its last leg. A squeak or chirp is a high frequency sound wave, and requires the same thing that all high frequency waves to: a very rapidly oscillating or vibrating surface that vibrates the air.
In an automobile, the inevitable cause of squeaking is a surface moving against another surface, which grabs and releases it thousands of times a second. Anywhere two parts come into contact is suspect, but especially so are places where metal itself vibrates because of contact with other metal, or with rubber.
Of course, in application, that means practically every part of your suspension, which can contain dozens or hundreds of moving parts. The hardest part about fixing a squeaking suspension may just be figuring out where the sound is coming from. You can stick your head under the vehicle and listen around while someone else bounces the body. But this isn't just dangerous, it's also often ineffective because sound has a way of bouncing around in misleading ways. You may think you're hearing the sound of a spring creaking against the body, when you're really hearing the ball joints 12 inches away.
A medical-type stethoscope can be helpful, but it's hard to use, and you run the risk of crushing your fingers. Instead, you can build a simple sound probe using a inch-long, small-diameter metal rod and a small plastic tube. Just slip one end of the tube over the end of the rod, and plug the other into your ear.
Touch the other end of the rod to the suspect area while an assistant bounces the vehicle; if you've found the squeak, it will come through probe and into your ear, loud and clear. Nine times out of 10, suspension squeaks come down to a lack of lubrication between two metal components, or a metal component and a rubber one.
If you have a suspension with grease fittings on the ball joints, sway bar end-links and steering links, then start by pumping them all full of grease. There's a good chance that this in itself will solve the problem.
The rubber isolators between the tops of coil springs and the spring cubs in the body are also common culprits. Often times, you can stop squeaking here by dropping the springs, and slathering both sides of the isolators with bearing grease; other times, they may be completely worn out and in need of replacement.
While you're at it, use a paint brush to grease the coil springs where the coils come close together; worn-out springs will tend to collapse in this area, causing the coils to rub against each other.Discussion in ' Maintenance ' started by KhaosMay 6, Log in or Sign up.
Messages: 20, Most everyone that owns a GM truck knows about the infamous yoke clunk. After putting up with it for the last few months on my extended cab, I decided today that I would fix the issue. After doing some research, there seemed to be three ways to go about fixing it: getting the updated nickel yoke from GM, packing the current yoke with grease, or clamp the leaf springs. I chose the third option due to ease of installation and adjustment.
Should be the same in each store. This quick fix eliminated that annoying clunk while driving. Hopefully this simple guide can help others that are wondering about this fix. Last edited: May 6, KhaosMay 6, Messages: 5, I can't tell if my RCLB has it. Sometimes if I downshift without rev matching it clunks and if I hammer it in gear after being part throttle it clunks.
Don't think that's yoke clunk. My rcsb does the same thing. Messages: 23, GingerMay 7, I only drove it around the block, but I'll let you know later today.
KhaosMay 7, Messages: 10, Describe said clunking? Looked it up and most said it's in the leafs. Tis this the same thing?
Sent from my Galaxy S-Fawhore. BassmasterMay 7, Carry on Sent from my Galaxy S-Fawhore. Update: In my application, the clamp didn't make any noticeable difference in ride stiffness. Yes it did. Messages: 1, My burb has rear coils and I get the yoke clunk every so often.We are open and fully operational. For a lot of truck owners, broken leaf springs symptoms seem difficult to spot. However, this is only because they likely haven't paid attention to this very crucial part of a vehicle.
When you learn how to tell bad leaf springs apart from good ones, learning how to repair leaf springs as well as maintain them will become a whole lot easier.
While some of the symptoms of broken leaf springs are readily apparent, other symptoms are less obvious and can only be detected with knowledge of how the springs should look and perform. When rear springs are broken, it's often easy to tell by looking at the leaves and spotting the cracks and fractures. However, you'd need to get under the truck to perform that type of inspection. From the outside of the truck, one of the easiest ways to tell if you have bad leaf springs is by studying how the vehicle sits from a side-view when parked and empty.
Is the truck vertical from front to back, or does it appear slouched or elevated at the rear? The last of those possibilities — elevated — is the ideal position for a truck to be in while parked on an even stretch of ground.
Though it might seem strange, trucks are actually designed to hike slightly toward the rear when parked and empty. This is to accommodate for the extra weight that trucks often carry when the back is loaded with heavy objects, such as boxes and furniture. If the truck were to sit flat when empty, the extra weight could cause the vehicle to sag low at the rear.
Therefore, if the parked truck is flat when empty and back-slouched when full, it's possibly a sign of worn leaf springs. Leaf springs are subject to wear and tear over the course of several years, largely because of the various moving parts that comprise the springs.
Leaf Springs & Suspension Authority Since 1965!
Leaf springs can also start to lag from prolonged periods of uneven weight distributions from within a vehicle.
In any case, leaf springs should be checked at regular durations, which would be every 12, miles for most trucks. With certain trucks, there might be a shorter recommended interval, so it's always best to check with your auto manufacturer.
In advance of checking out the leaf springs under your truckpark it in a flat area and inspect the truck from a distance to see whether it sits straight or slouches in some way. The non-passenger kerb weight of the truck should also be representative of the vehicle's normal state.
Put yourself at a reasonable distance from behind the truck and examine the way it sits on the ground. Does it appear level from left to right, or does one side slump to a slight degree?
If there is a slump, it's likely due to a weak or damaged leaf spring on that side. Funny though it may seem, a truck can actually start to sag on the left side when the driver is the sole occupant of the vehicle for extended periods of time. When the sag becomes visually obvious, it's a tell-tale sign that the leaf springs are due for a change out.
For the second part of the inspection, walk over to each side of the truck and study the nature of the swinging link spring shackles.
The links could either be at the front or back of the springs, but in any case, they should lie flat if the truck is at kerb weight. If one or both of the springs appears to be compromised, inspect the matter further for evidence of the cause. The problem could stem from undue impact on one or both of the leaf springs, or the issue could simply be due to the ravages of age.
A broken leaf spring is something most truck drivers face at some point. The average leaf spring consists of anywhere from four to ten leaves of spring steel, each of which are cut at different lengths and bonded with clamps.Leaf springs are the long, thin springs stacked on top of each another to support the rear axle and sometimes front axle of your vehicle.
Leaf springs do not resemble coil springs, but actually look more like three to six metal hammocks laid one upon another. As your vehicle goes over irregularities in the pavement, the leaf springs minimize the jolt transference to the chassis. Sometimes, dirt or moisture can build up between the leaf springs, causing them to squeak, groan or moan when you hit a bump.
While this can be annoying, it's not overly detrimental to the vehicle. Clean the leaf springs with a pressure washer, thoroughly spraying the area where the springs meet. If you don't have a professional pressure washer, use the pressure hose at your local coin-operated car wash. Lift the rear of your vehicle with a floor jack high enough for you to place a jack stand under the rear frame on each side.
Leaf Spring Troubleshooting
Place a jack stand under the frame on each side; do not put the stands under the rear axle or the leaf spring as you want the rear axle to hang down as far as possible. Set the vehicle onto the jack stands with the floor jack. Apply a thin layer of white lithium grease between each of the leaves in the left and right leaf springs with a small paint brush. Look for color variations in the leaves themselves to see where the leaf springs contact each other.
Spray several quick bursts of silicone spray lubricant into the leaf spring bushings, at the end of each spring. Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack. Move the jack stands aside and lower the vehicle to the ground with the floor jack. Drive the vehicle for several miles to work the lubricant into the springs and bushings, which should bring an end to the noise.
This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Step 1 Clean the leaf springs with a pressure washer, thoroughly spraying the area where the springs meet.
Step 2 Lift the rear of your vehicle with a floor jack high enough for you to place a jack stand under the rear frame on each side. Step 3 Apply a thin layer of white lithium grease between each of the leaves in the left and right leaf springs with a small paint brush. Step 4 Spray several quick bursts of silicone spray lubricant into the leaf spring bushings, at the end of each spring.
Tip In the event this process does not stop the noise from your leaf springs, take your vehicle to a professional automotive suspension technician and have it inspected. You may need to have the leaf spring bushings replaced or all new leaf springs installed. Items you will need Pressure washer Floor jack 2 Jack stands White lithium grease Small paint brush Silicone spray lubricant.
About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.